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These panels are held in place with a single screw on the side of the machine if you have a slightly older printer. It is difficult to reach the set screws that secure the pulley to the motor and you will therefore have to remove the white cover plates that the motors sit behind. If they are you must move the pulley closer to the stepper motor. Similarly make sure that the pulleys on the stepper motors that the belts ride over are not touching the side of the printer. Make sure that the short belts that connect the stepper motors to the axes do not rub up against the main body of the printer. To promote bed adhesion you can make a slurry of ABS by dissolving a few bits of scrap ABS in a jar with Acetone Spread this slurry like a glue onto your build platform.Ī leaning print is usually caused by friction causing the print head to move a shorter distance than expected. Ideally the printer should be enclosed to keep a constant temperature in the printing area. If at all possible try to print without using the cooling fans at all. Besides needing a higher bed temperature (remember to change the material setting on your machine to ABS) you also need to be more careful with cooling. But since the bed on the Go is much smaller, warping is less of a problem.ĪBS is much more prone to warping than PLA and needs some extra care.
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This will make the print stick much harder. You can also clean the surface of the tape with some alcohol to get rid of the waxy surface and any finger oils. Make sure you really press it onto the platform so that it doesn't easily lift off. The Ultimaker2 Go doesn't come with a heated bed so here you'll mostly have to rely on using the supplied blue painters tape and brim. Since this brim is only a single layer thick it is very easy to remove once the print is complete. This feature puts what looks like the brim of a hat on the bottom layer of your print to help fight against the pulling forces of the cooling print. If the lines are squished and messy it is likely your bed is too close.Ī built in feature in cura called "brim" is another great way to help keep your print from warping. If the lines show signs of gaps your bed is levelled too low. Notice how all the lines are uniform and touching. Here's an example of what you're looking for: You want the lines to be touching each other and all look identical to each other. Besides preventing the print from coming loose or warping it also makes the bottom layer nice and shiny. The plastic must be squished onto the platform so that it bonds properly. It is also important to make sure your bed is levelled as perfectly as you can. As the bed heats the water will evaporate and leave a very nice thin and even layer of glue. Then, with a moistened rag or piece of paper, spread the glue out evenly onto the platform. Your printer will have come with a small stick of glue, spread a thin layer of glue onto the platform. Although the heat from the platform is often enough it is also recommended to add a thin layer of glue to the platform to promote adhesion. By using a heated platform the plastic is kept just below the point where it goes solid, the so called glass transition temperature, and it therefore stays flat and connected to the platform. The best way to prevent this is with a heated build platform. Eventually the forces become so great that the print bends up from the platform. As the print cools down and shrinks slightly it starts to pull in on itself. Warping happens when the plastic cools and contracts.